| Identification of Panels / Other Items
Fronts and backs: Has small cut out sections at the ends of the channel at each corner, which are designed to accept the sides.
Sides: Do not have cut outs.
Roof: The roof panels have channel along two edges and flashing on the other opposite edges. For the Gable roof sheds there are two roof panels, which fit into a central ridge (supplied).
Self-tapping Screws: Supplied with shed, requires 1/8" (No. 30) drill bit and Phillips head driver (cordless drill ideal). Pop rivets (1/8 inch, 3.2 mm) may be used instead
Important Information before you start!
Do not attempt to erect a shed in windy weather. This may cause personal injury or property damage.
Do not leave your shed unattached to the ground. It is essential to firmly anchor the shed to the ground as soon as it is erected; otherwise there is a risk of serious damage by the wind.
Anchoring Suggestions:
A popular and simple concrete slab installation technique achieves an effective rebate to minimize water and dust infiltration is as follows:
1. Place a number of house bricks underneath the bottom channels to lift the erected shed clear of the ground.
2. Square and level the shed. Use a tape measure to check the diagonals are equal.
3. Pegs with clips should be used as temporary anchors to hold the shed while concrete is poured and sets. They remain in the floor and will also firmly attach the shed to the concrete base. Otherwise be sure to make a firm attachment to the concrete floor using masonry bolts and clips or their equivalent
4. The shed is then ready to have a concrete floor poured and levelled to just below the channel on the inside of the shed. The concrete level outside the shed need only be to the bottom of the channel and sloping gently away to drain water clear. The concrete level at the door way can be at the same height as the channels so that there is a smooth entrance which is an advantage i.e. sweeping out the shed or wheeling in barrows, bins etc. Again, once outside the concrete level can slope away from the shed and join into existing pathways etc. The house bricks remain buried in the concrete.
Other techniques include driving posts (preserved, 450 mm) to the ground level and then attaching the shed with anchor brackets. A number of posts may be required for each wall length depending on site wind conditions. Typically 3 are required for a 3 m wall.
Flat concrete slabs are suitable provided optional clips and masonry bolts are used. Sloping the edges away from the shed is recommended. A silicon type seal can be placed under the channels of the shed to minimize water and dust infiltration.
Less windy protected sites may only need pegs and clips for smaller sheds. The clips increase the pegs holding down effectiveness and position the peg so it is completely buried, clear of any internal paving of the shed that may be done. Pegs should be replaced after a number of years depending on soil conditions. Check them occasionally.
If in doubt about suitability for windy or exposed sites please consult your local civil engineer.
Once you have decided and prepared for the anchoring of the shed then you are ready to start the installation process:
1. Site for the shed must be reasonably level.
2. Place the panels roughly in the right position lying down outwards from where you want your shed. Be careful not to place panels on sharp scratchy objects.
3. Raise the back panel and put into position. Raise one of the sides and fit into channel cutouts of the back panel. Having a pair of pliers handy will help to bend the channel to ensure it is a snug fit.
4. From the outside position the sheet edges so they are comfortably interlocking. Drill through the overlapping sheets at the corner and drive home a self-tapping screw. Be careful not to drive too hard, as the screw will strip the hole. Use at least five screws evenly placed for each corner. Rivets may also be used.
5. Repeat step four for the other side.
6. Now raise the front panel and attach the corners in the same way. The four walls should now be firmly attached and free standing.
Installing the Gable Roof
1. Place the ridge beam upside down on the ground. Check which edge of the roof sheet inside the channel is bent. This bent edge of the roof should be slid (also upside down) into the ridge beam. Make sure the roof is fully pushed into the slot.
2. Use a screwdriver to clear any rivet heads that may be catching. The flashing on the roof should be just level with the strong ridge beam at both ends.
3. Drill and fix through ridge beam into the roof channel at least three points per sheet width.
4. Lift roof panel and ridge into position so that the ridge sits directly on apex of gable walls. Then drill through the roof flashing and top wall channel on one side and drive screws firmly home. Use at least three screws per sheet width.
5. Accurately square the shed checking the overhang is even along the front and back, and the diagonals of the shed are equal. Then drill and attach the roof flashing of the other side in the same manner.
6. Now lift the other roof panel (checking the bent edge is uppermost) and slide into its slot ensuring its fully in position.
7. Attach the flashing to the sides. Drilling through the ridge beam to attach the second roof panel is done from inside the shed, screwing firmly into the roof channel.
8. Fastening down of the roof is completed by drilling up through the channel on the outside of the wall and out through the roof.
9. Screw the self-tappers down from the top of the roof into the wall channel. Drilling can be done from the top by using a stick or screwdriver to locate the channel position before drilling each hole. Use at least four screws per sheet width.
10. Bend the ends of the roof flashings at each corner to eliminate sharp edge.
Adjustments of the door bolt may be necessary if the site is not perfectly level as often is the case. If the pad bolt does not slide easily into the hasp then this may be adjusted by tapping a wedge under the wall of the shed, either immediately below the bolt or below the hinges. A trial will soon show which is required.
Anchoring of the shed should now be promptly carried out.
Fronts greater than 3.74 m
The fronts, backs and roofs will come in multiple panels that will have to be joined after joining a side to a wall. The panels overlap one rib. From the outside the shed position the sheet edges so they are comfortably interlocking. Drill through the overlapping sheets at the middle of the rib and drive home a self-tapping screw. Use at least five screws evenly placed for joiner panel edge.
For the roof panels the following applies:
1. A truss will be supplied which has six joiner brackets taped to it. One joiner bracket is place over the channel at the top and bottom of each wall and the bottom of the roof join. Drill through the joiner and channel and secure with screws (at least four per joiner). The truss then is lifted onto the wall and is slid so it is exactly under the middle of the join in the two ridges.
2. Two ridges are supplied one with a flap and one without. Place the ridges upside down on the ground and position along side the wall panel. The bent end of the ridge goes to the outside of the shed. Place the ridge away from the shed so the roof panel can be slid into the slot nearest the shed wall.
3. Select a roof panel that will slide into the slot with the flashing at the bent end of the ridge. Also check that the bent edge of the roof inside the channel is the edge slid into the ridge beam slot. This side of the roof should be slid (also upside down) into the ridge beam. Make sure the roof is fully pushed into the slot. Use screwdriver to clear any rivet heads that may be catching. The flashing of the roof should be made just level with the strong ridge beam at the bent end. Drill and fix through ridge beam into the roof channel at least three points per sheet width.
4. Lift roof panel and ridge into position so that the ridge sits directly on apex of gable walls and on the middle of the truss. Adjust truss if necessary. Drill through the roof flashing and top wall channel on one side and drive screws firmly home. Use at least three screws per sheet width. Drill from inside the shed and attach the truss to the ridge beam keeping it in the center. One screw initially will suffice.
5. Repeat for the other ridge, attaching the roof on the ground and then lifting into position. Carefully slide the flap of the ridge under the ridge top of the other ridge. This ensures a good water seal. Slide the roof panels into position so the ridges meet over the truss and the roofs overlap one rib. Join the roof panels keeping them square. Four screws drilled from the top through the overlapping ribs should be sufficient.
6. Now accurately square the shed checking the overhang is even along the front or back and the diagonals of the shed are equal. Drill and attach the roof flashing of the other side in the same manner.
7. Lift the other roof panels one at a time (checking the bent edge is uppermost) and slide into their slot ensuring each is fully home.
8. Slide the last roof panel into position, squaring it with the flashing over the gable and one rib overlap. Secure the overlap join as before and attach flashings to the sides. Drilling through the ridge beam to attach these roof panels is done from inside the shed, screwing firmly into the roof channel. Also add three more screws to hold the ridges onto the truss. The truss ends should be attached to the tops of the walls by drilling and screwing from inside the shed through the channel and joiners. Four screws per end should suffice.
9. Fastening down of the roof is completed by drilling up through the channel on the outside of the wall and out through the roof. Screw the self-tappers down from the top of the roof into the wall channel. Drilling can be done from the top by using a stick or screwdriver to locate the channel position before drilling each hole. Use at least four screws per sheet width.
Additional Notes:
Windows: The optional window will be delivered separate from the shed with a pack of glass (5 sheets). The wall will have the window space cut out to receive the window frame supplied. After erecting the shed simply fit window into cut-out, with wide flashing at top and secure with at least six screws evenly placed drilled from the outside of the shed. Place glass into louvers before fitting window. Be careful of sharp edges of glass, gloves are recommended.
Shelf Brackets: Sturdy shelf brackets are supplied loose and are fitted into place just prior to attaching the roof to the walls. Position the shelf brackets so they clip over the walls (do no attempt on the gable ends). Check to see that the spacing between the brackets matches with the shelves that are going to be used. Craft wood, particleboard (18 mm) or just a plank of wood are all ideal shelves.
Concrete Anchor Kit: Requires 8 mm diameter masonry drill bit. Erect shed on concrete slab. Position the anchoring clips over the wall bottom channels and drill through the holes in the slab. Tap masonry bit into hole and tighten. The number of anchor clips depends on site conditions. They come in packs of eight.
Pegs and Clips: Clips make installation of pegs easier and more secure. Slip the clip over the wall bottom channel and scoop out the soil so it is hard down on the channel and the hole is exposed for the peg. Hammer peg through the clip on a 45-degree angle until the head of the peg is below the ground and locked into the clip. Alternate pegs from inside to outside the shed, this will further lock the shed in position. Pegs alone may not be adequate to permanently secure the shed depending on your site conditions. If in doubt seek advice from your local civil engineer.
Aviaries and Fowl Houses: Fronts join to the sides by fitting the channel into the rebate, drilling and screwing through the flap into the channel. Otherwise installation is as per above notes.
Steel Framed Sheds: The panels are positioned as per above notes. Self drilling screws are used to join the steel frames. Once the walls are erected roof bars if applicable (3.0m and greater gables, 2.3 m skillion sides) should be installed by sliding over the nibs and using self drilling screws. If the shed front is greater than 3.74m a portal will be supplied with multiple wall and roof panels. The portal should be installed with the roof bars. Square the shed, put the portal into position with the roof bars spanning from gable to portal to gable. The ridges should then join above the portal (make sure the ridges are matching the same length wall). The portal is attached again with self drilling screws. The multiple walls join with nuts and bolts supplied.
The Steel Framed sheds have hold down brackets attached to the walls and gables. Use the masonry bit and drill through the holes into the concrete slab to take a masonry bolt.
The roof is to be installed as per the above notes. The wall sheet joins should be overlapped and joined as per above notes.
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